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Ramblings From The Nature Paradise of Dominica

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We love Dominica and our friends who live there. But until Ruth can retire late next year, we’re consigned to twice-yearly month-long visits. We were chagrined on our June-July visit that the month seemed to go so quickly, and that the time away just seems to drag. And now, we expect to see damage when we return in December.

From the USA, television and Internet coverage of the hurricane’s effect in Dominica was just awful. We could spot the storm’s ominous projected path on the Internet (and were relieved when the actual path was a bit more southerly). The loop was played on TV news, but the broadcasters were appallingly ignorant of geography. I sent an e-mail to one local TV station whose newscaster said that the island directly north of Martinique was Guadeloupe. And there was no storm footage or reportage from Dominica itself on any US TV network. All the talk on the TV news was about places more populous, more likely to be full of tourists, etc. It was as if Dominica did not even exist.

The only news we were able to get, in our attempts to assuage our concerns about our friends and neighbors came from Dominica on this Web site and what we could get over the phone or email. Our place is in Calibishie and we also have a dear friend of 20 years in Paix Bouche. We were able to telephone people on the bay in Calibishie and nearby in Point Baptist and in Paix Bouche two days after the storm. But telephone service up the Calibishie Ridge Road took two weeks to recover, and we learned that electricity in the immediate area of our home was out for a week. Pipe water was also out for quite some time in Calibishie, we learned, and in Paix Bouche as well, where a major pipe burst.

Our kind friends on the bay in Calibishie got a message to our dear friend and neighbor to use her key to get into our house and get the chicken out of our freezer and use it and/or give it away. We’re glad for that, for the help it may have been to people and because coming back to rotten meat would have been just awful.

Thankfully, nobody we knew was hurt. We were very sorry to learn of the tragic loss of two lives, a mother and her 7-year-old son in Campbell. Dominica’s leading author and historian Lennox Honychurch reported on the storm to friends via email, and that quickly made the rounds, as did photos of damage in some churches. The crop damage and paucity of disaster funding is disturbing news. The new banana and plantain crops will be at least 36 weeks in the future, and EC$300 per acre under cultivation isn’t much to tide farmers over. I don’t have data, but I doubt that there are as many as 36 acres per farmer, or individual doing the farming. There will be some hard times ahead for many families.

But we have learned that Dominicans are energetic, cheerful, optimistic, industrious people; not the type to let a storm get them down. While America with its vast resources can’t make recovery happen in New Orleans, we fully expect to find when we return that life in Dominica will be very nearly back to normal. And that will make us happy too.




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Dominica Events:
Dive Fest 2009
Dominica Dive Fest 2009
Dive Fest 2009 runs from July 10-19 2009 and this will be the 16th consecutive year that the Dominica Watersports Association has presented this annual event. Dive Fest is the longest running Scuba Diving Festival in the Caribbean, and what better island to host such an event than Dominica. SCUBA DIVING Magazine′s Reader′s Choice Awards for Top Macro Life, Dive Destination, Healthy Environment and Underwater Photography among other categories.
View the complete list of Dive Fest 2009 Events »
World Creole Music Festival 2009 (WCMF)
Every year the World Creole Music Festival in Dominica brings together musicians, singers and bands from all over the world. The festival beginnings evey year on "international Creole Day" – the last Friday in October with unique rhythms of Zouk, Cadence, Compas, Soukous and Bouyon Music. In 2009, the World Creole Music Festival expected to be bigger than ever.
Visit the World Creole Music Festival for update on the WCMF 2009 »

Leaving Portsmouth, bear right where the road goes straight into Fort Shirley on the Cabrits and you will soon reach Douglas Bay. We first visited this spot in 1987, and then again in 1992. Back then the beach was long and broad and bottom along the entire area was sandy.

Alas, storms changes that. But there is still a sandy beach and sandy bottom area just at the beginning of the bay, on the left as you enter. The swimming beach is excellent, sandy with a very gradual slope and no waves or current to speak of.

 photo of Douglas bay in Dominica.jpg

A nice surprise awaits the snorkeler who ventures up the beach about 30 yards out. There are rock/coral undersea islands that abound with beautiful marine fauna. Each island tends to have a dominant fish species; one has a school of sergeant majors, another mostly blue chromis, and so on. You’ll also spot the occasional Moorish idol, butterfly fish, discus, etc.

As is the case with Toucari, the sandy areas between the rocks and the beach may have sand dollars that a snorkeler can easily dive to collect. In Douglas Bay you may also find varieties of starfish, harmless white sea urchins, and even a conch.

Fort Shirley, Douglas Bay battery

From the beach at Douglas Bay you can also snorkel towards the left back towards the rear of the Cabrits. The undersea vista is of rocks and undersea life preferring a rocky habitat.

This post was guest blogged by Dan Tanner


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photo of toucari beach on Dominica island

Toucari is on the road between Portsmouth and Capuchin. Leaving Portsmouth, bear right where the road goes straight into Fort Shirley on the Cabrits and pass through Douglas Bay. Where the road forks into toward Capuchin or the Northern Link Road, bear left towards Capuchin. You will ascend to Morne a Louis (some very nice homes on the left overlook the back of the Cabrits) and then down a really steep and tortuous set of hairpin curves with high rock walls into Toucari Bay.

The street at the bay has a nice new sidewalk, and there’s a dock and swimming beach on the left as you enter. There’s also a nice refreshment spot, Angela’s across the road from the beach. Toward the far end of the bay you’ll see a seawall. At the far end of this seawall is a very small sand beach next to a cemetery. This is a great place to snorkel. Go straight out and then right. There are reefs all along the way with abundant fish and coral to view.

And here’s something really interesting: There is a stairway at the mid-point of the seawall. And about 20 yards into the bay directly in front of the stairs you will find that volcanic gas bubbles up from the sandy bottom. Some gas vents remain open and bubble constantly. Others open to emit a bubble and then close until emitting the next one. There are a few rocks with vents in the area too. The gas bubble field is not as extensive as the one at Champagne, but Toucari is free. And while both Champagne and Soufriere (where we’ve heard there are also undersea bubble vents, we have not been there to see them), Toucari is in the north, while the other two spots are near each other in the south.

Another thing about Toucari: Ask around when you arrive and you can probably find someone to take you out in a boat around the bay cliffs on the end near the cemetery. Above the water you’ll see some interesting caves in the beautiful cliffs, and very close to the cliffs in shallow water (shallow enough for snorkelers) there is a very old wreck of a wooden ship that you can explore. The wreck is open, there is no hull to go into; you can swim around and over the wooden ships’ ribs that rest on the bottom. There are plenty of tropical fish there too.

Take a leisurely snorkel swim from the coral end to the dock end of the bay and you are likely to spot sand dollars within an easy snorkel dive to reach.

This post was guest blogged by Dan Tanner

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